Granted im not a professional, I was just in Mens Wearhouse and most of the time they seemed to match both the jacket AND the pants, but for me personally I would rather have the vest match the jacket than the pants. Evan, A lot of men wear a vest or waistcoat without a jacket. I feel that if you want to wear a belt, wear a belt. To me the color combination just does not look good.
There should be no presence of logo or branding when wearing a suit. For example, do not wear a Polo shirt with the Polo logo on it under a suit jacket or a Burberry tie with the Burberry tartan although the scarfs are fine. The emphasis of a suit should be the fit, not the brands it is worn with.
A man need not an excuse to wear a tie or jacket. In other words, a man need not an excuse to dress up. Thou shall take off his sunglasses when talking to someone else who is not wearing sunglasses. Unless thou is at the beach or pool. I think a slanted tie bar is fine for professional setting, I used to wear one as a big 4 auditor regularly. The horizontal tie bar is both more traditional and conservative. I understand if you prefer a slanted tie bar but to put it on a list of rules,written in the style of the ten commandments, is a bit much.
People with no experience will come here and take that statement as law, when it is a style of the minority. My father still points to this rule, but I find it to be a little dated.
The practice of wearing FC shirts without a jacket is very common amongst well-dressed gentlemen these days, especially in Europe. When subtle links are used, it seems to work, when someone douche is wearing large cufflinks, a gold chain and has two top buttons unbuttoned, it is a different story. Loafers are casual shoes, even Gucci bits, etc. I am in total agreement with PE and PicStiched.
Never any loafers or jewelry on shoes with a suit. Save it for Saturday night dinner in the summer. However, buying a different set of suspenders for every color tie I have seems like an exceedingly expensive proposition. Joe, First, an admirable thing switching from belts to suspenders, an understandable dilemma you ask about. A different set of suspenders is not needed for each color tie, you should be able to get by safely with a few basic colors.
I would recommend starting with navy and burgundy; between the two of them you can match or compliment most color ties, they will also mesh well with almost any color suit. I would shy away from black, as I am of the belief that black suspenders should be reserved for semi formal and formal wear; but obviously it is up to you.
Actually, black suspenders are fine, as they are a subdued color. Suspenders are like sock garters, they are an undergarment that is never meant to be seen, which is why there is the rule never to wear them without a jacket. Thou shall not button all 3 buttons on a 3 button suit jacket or sport coat. The top button alone is fashionable if not a bit fashion forward.
Buttoning the first and second buttons are fashionable yet conservative. Buttoning the middle button is always in conservatively good taste, especially in a mixed group of fashion frustrated folks. Fastening all three buttons is a fashion fatality on the order of a bald man attempting to hide the obvious with a comb over. No one is fooled and everyone but the blind or ignorant notice the tasteless error.
Not sure how I let this one slip through for so long… I get legitimately irritated when I see guys with all three buttons buttoned. For some reason it seems security guards at office buildings and retail establishments are particularly prone to this offense. Uniforms coats are an exception in that they require all buttons to be buttoned, which may explain your security guard observation. You are correct on that one Sir. While in uniform, ALL buttons shall be buttoned.
If there is a screw hole put a screw in it, if there is a button hole put a button in it. If one feels comfortable buttoning it then do so. Wear your clothes for you and not for others. If anyone was to approach me and point out my fashion faux pas, I would remind them of the afore mentioned story, call them a kiss ass and walk away. Depend on the definition we give to it, I use to make a difference with fashion and style. Style is personal expression, of course you do it for others, in part, but you express yourself and make you fashion, instead of passively follow a trend.
Imho snobism in untasty, unless you express it with extreme elegance and respect, without being holier than thou. Most jackets are cut to hang at their best with the bottom button undisturbed. Try it yourself, see which looks best. Is it common to wear a tie bar at a slant? I have never seen anyone wear a tie bar at a slant. I think it would look rather odd to wear a tie bar like this. I am guessing the reason is that that is how they see their peers wearing tie bars, but the masses are not always right.
I also think rationality would make one think to wear it flat. But, style is not always rational… One of the ideas behind wearing it at a slant is to create a more vertical, not a horizontal line. For horizontal lines tie bar worn flat tend to visually widen things whereas in contrast diagonal tie bar at a slant and vertical lines tend to heighten. Flatly placed tie bars also seem to clash more with necktie designs, as most seem to have some type of diagonal, as opposed to horizontal, line in them.
Your statements are often mis-directed. The fact that you have so many rules means none of this is second nature to you and you try far too hard. You are a little too jumped up and eager to be a gentleman. Thanks for your feedback, I appreciate you taking the time to voice your opinion. The rules I put forth are meant as safe guidelines on how to dress well.
The rules are not necessarily for me or the blog, but for the readers, such as yourself. But my intent is not to insult readers by listing a set of rules. But as they say, rules are made to be broken. And I often break some of these rules and at times try to get others to do so with me.
Lastly, London is a great city, I envy you for living there. Overall, eventhough I had 1 or 2 issues, very fantastic job. Such vulgar language says more about a man than how he dresses. But if you were raised properly these rules should be second nature.
I grew up with them over 50 years ago. It seems today parents are to relaxed with dress attire and this attitude is, unfortunately, passed onto their children. It is sometimes the socio-economic standing that hinders that- not necessarily poor breeding. My father was a diplomat and yet I learned most of my queues from magazines and watching TV. If you have no need to dress well- why bother learning the rules. A gentleman is one who dresses appropriately as the occasion calls for and does not offend with his choice of clothing.
There are many gentlemen in the world not only London and to be appropriately dressed in whatever society you reside in says more about you than the clothes you wear. Every culture has a dress code and those who can adept and knowing what is proper and what is not are considered gentlemen. The man makes the clothes not the clothes the man! Eventhough, I belief the blog is a good attempt to keep gentlemen honest or to inform those who so wish to dress like one.
We must first keep in mind the key to being a gentlemen is first in the mind and attitude dress is second priority. Now,I have to slightly concure with Mr. Ben here from London. Yes, great shoes are always important. It crushes the inspiration to be creative and unique. As long as a gentlemen owns a pair of fine shoes, wears bow ties to formals. Never button the last button on a suit. Wear clothing that fits not to loosly and not too tightly. Get educate by a smart tailor on how to properly wear a suit.
I think the rest can be waived. All the best and good luck on dressing like a gentlemen. This is simply not true. I myself have often been described as a gentleman, and I use the term badass quite frequently. Arguing on the internet is like racing in the Special Olympics. Did I seriously just read this? On a website intended to help gentleman dress well? I, personally, am here to learn about how to better guide my husband on his dress choice in a world where he now advocates for our special needs son.
I can honestly say that you, good sir, are an embarrassment to the word gentleman. Thanks for the laugh. Sometimes the truth is offensive. It was just a joke. Yes, and you know how relatives can be. But some rules do rule more then other rules. These shirts should not be part of a business casual wardrobe.
Oh never mind I just figured it out. If your shirt has a white collar and white cuffs — wear a jacket. Does this same rule apply is the shirt is entire white? Andrew, This rule only applies when the collar and cuffs are of a contrasting white. Eric, I think a few safe bets are surcingle, grosgrain ribbon or needlepoint belts for a more casual look. I have also found success in matching the color of my belt with the sole of my white bucks, which is a tan; it seems to tie things together well.
I would not however, recommend wearing a white suede belt to match the shoes. My white bucks have a traditional brick red sole. They are probably copying it from Navy dress Whites. All military uniforms use web belts because they can serve as a tourniquet in an emergency. Actually web belts can serve lots of emergency purposes since they can adjust any length.
Maybe you are a female, and that is fine, of course. I just assumed that you are male. Yes, men also wear hosiery. Joe — Slacks can be for both men and women.
Perhaps the terminology varies by region, though. Seriously, the English language evolves, and regional differences exist. Some definitions would be helpful. Also cuffs on pants when, only on double pleats? Single pleats, plain front pants? What about button down collars, only with a sport coat, never with a suit?
What can one wear them with? Plain front suit pants? No cuffs, what about those specifics? Are you saying you are only to wear a white shirt with a suit while you wear a jacket? Compare business attire with lawyer attire, this is why I need some definitions, are they the same? And those loafers with tassels are almost as bad as the flat square toed shoes you dislike. Tassels are not kick ass but The Dude is.
Thanks I like your site. Chestnut and oxblood may work, but it is preferable to match oxblood with oxblood. Not everybody cares about style and dress codes but some of us sucessful ones do.
The first step to find your sock is to choose the type of fabric you […]. I was wondering, would it be a completely bad thing to wear burgundy wingtips with a tuxedo? Chris, My thoughts are that burgundy wingtips would be quite inappropriate to wear with a tux and I love burgundy wingtips. Actually, the wingtip part may be more of a faux pas then the burgundy part. White bucks are for men who are confident enough in who they are not to allow insecure homophobic a-holes to dissuade them from wearing a classic and time-tested piece of footwear that looks fantastic for summer dress.
Have you ever thought about adding a little bit more than just your articles? I mean, what you say is important and all. Your content is excellent but with images and videos, this blog could definitely be one of the greatest in its niche.
What I consider stylish may be different to […]. I do have a small set of keys on a brass swivel bolt snap that i clip it on my belt loop with the leather strap attached to the keys inside the rear pocket. Is there any other suggestions? How to better carry keys on a bolt snap,and a cell phone,even without a jacket?
Jeffers is not threatened by loss of keys. I have a brass snap with bridle leather for my keys which I attach to my belt. Fine Young Gentleman… What is your viewpoint on wearing western boots with a suit?..
The black, dressy and fully polished kind, not the brown suede and matted kind…. Chris, Personally, it is not something that is part of my style, however, I have seen some men do it quite well. I think the key is for the right man to do it at the right time. Is it okay to wear my red vivienne westwood plastic orb tuxedo slippers with my tux if my pocket square is a matching shade of red or how would I go about arranging this, this is killing me…my collar is winged and my lapel is shawled, no cummerbund instead I use a vest under my jacket the suit is completely black including the tie and shirt for a black out look.
The red shoes and pocket square are meant to make a contrasting effect. Or would that be too much? Love the rules, and if any suggestions please do tell! I like your stuff. Sounds like something out of State Department school trying to teach Young Marines how to wear civilian clothes.
Rudolph, I see no problem in wearing a shirt with a pocket with suspenders. On a personal note, I prefer to avoid shirt pockets, but that is a matter of preference. Tony, To be honest, I have never heard of the fedora and vest rule you speak of. Trousers are the pants to a suit. Slacks are pants to wear with a blazer or sport coat. Overall, I think you have a very good and very informative post. Wish more people would follow.
Im wearing a white shirt, white pants and a plue blue blazer with brown shoes…can I wear a white belt with outfit? Or it should be brown? Chris, I would avoid a white leather belt. But a white braided one or something of that ilk would likely be fine. Brown would be the safer and more conservative choice. Why are square toed shoes to be avoided? That is my preferred shoe for business casual at work. The preference is purely looks, not fit. Many others in my office have the same preference.
Is this just your own preference, or is there some etiquette reason for 18? Briago, There are a few reasons. But mostly they are just a signifier of bad taste. From a more technical perspective, they cut off the foot and create an unflattering line for the shoe; they create a horizontal line, whereas you want more vertical lines lines that run the length of the foot. Furthermore, I have never seen a nice upper pattern dress a square toed last.
I have a pair of Express Photographer suit pants, in black, but cannot find a vest in black to match the fabric on the pants… would it be acceptable to wear a chalk white vest instead? I am glad to be re-reading these comments.
I had the same question, and so I am relieved to find this answer! Wow, everyone here agrees, what a boring pointless waist of time. First rule, there are no rules. Let loose man, indigo denim jeans, brown beat up brogues and a nice fitted shirt with top button undone.
Gets the ladies everytime whilst the blazers are complementing each other on joining their exclusive club of banality. Thou shalt learn the proper usage of the second person singular pronoun before attempting to employ it. Your list is the grammatical equivalent of wearing a tuxedo with sneakers. Though too, a stickler for proper English; remember that this is a blog about fashion, and thus an English nanny adds little. Chris, of August 14, you are rude. The guy is just listing some things that most well dressed men would wear for business.
Do you know what I mean? I realize this is an old post, but I was browsing around and found it, and feel compelled make a comment about those complaining about Rule 16, claiming that loafers are casual wear and therefore unacceptable to wear with suits.
I can vividly remember going shopping with my father back in the 80s where I learned more about classic, American style business suits and shoes than any 12 year old girl probably needed to know.
Not low-cut slip-ons, but shoes that he used a shoe horn for. With maybe a little brouge detailing and tassels. No one would have said that my father was the trendiest guy at his L. And he wore loafers. Luke, No, especially if it is a darker brown. Only White shirts should be worn under a suit? I love when guys mix shirt patterns with tie patterns. I find nothing sadder than the current trend of guys wearing flat toed shoes. How did this happen? I think it actually started in the UK.
Do you think congress would consider economic sanctions? Dave, No I am not saying only white shirts should be worn. Only shirts that have a white collar and cuffs and have some type of pattern, color or otherwise for the body and arms of the shirt, sometimes called banker shirts require a jacket. I am not sure what exactly started the square toed shoe disaster, however, I would gladly publish a piece on the history of how they came to be if someone wanted to write it.
The more glaring grammatical issue, as I alluded to rather snarkily in my previous reply, is the mixing of second and third person pronouns. Please allow me recognise so that I may just subscribe. Amanda, Yes, of course it is okay to wear suspenders with a vest.
Just make sure the suspenders fasten to the pants via buttons and not clips. Nick, I would advise against pairing a black suit whether solid or striped with brown shoes.
It really depends on the suit. If the suit is a solid black no striping or plaid in it then no on the brown shoes. I was planning on wearing a black suit and tie. Keep up the great work! You know, many people are searching around for this information, you could help them greatly. I see it daily done right. Or a blue suit if the brown is dark enough. The Rule about matching colors of belt and shoe, what do you say about a dark blue suede Brogues shoe?
By that I mean hat colors of pant should you wear? You guys have lot of times on your hands. Wear whatever you feel confortable wearing. This is all mambo jumbo to me. I hand my cell phone to my belt because it is convenient and give me easy access to answer calls. If you want to button all the buttons on your suit, go ahead, it is yours and yours alone. Why else will there be a 3rd button? By the way, I never liked 3 button suits.
Likewise flat front pants, I hate those. I hate pointed head shoes the most. People like you are the reason sites like this are made, to tell you that you are doing it wrong. PS rule 28 brown suits, no go zone, no one looks good in a brown suit. There is a lot of commentary here. First, connie, this is a pretty good list of very basic rules one could follow when wanting to look groomed…this comes from a person raised in the Country Club who still wears a suit and tie to work everyday.
Now, there is common sentiment that too many rules is a bad thing, makes one look like they try too hard, etc, with the common theme being…make sure your clothes fit well. I have an opinion on that. Nothing destroys a look, or makes one look like someone TRYING to look like a guy in a suit than a pilfy or faded tie, unsigned shoes, a shirt color that has those tell tell whitened edges on the collar that suggests the shirt has seen and passed its prime.
Make sure your clothes are in good condition, as well, and never, ever buy those ties that are patterned like modern art. As for white bucks, I must absolutely disagree that they are for any occasion other than casual. I think the author has claimed white bucks as his personal trademark…as I have done with loud socks. Now, while my loud socks are a stamp on my fashion choice and I think they are awesome, I would not suggest that everyone try the trend as, truthfully, it is not correct.
However, once a gentleman dresses up and gets comfortable with the rules, they begin to break certain rules as to not look like…they read a set of rules. I honestly think this: There are hard fast rules. Match your shoes and belt. And, yes, square toe shoes should be avoided. DO NOT wear that outfit. You will begin to play with the rules. Then, one day, you will find your equivalent to loud socks.
YOu will find that one thing that attracts attention, but you feel confident about it…and interestingly…people will comment favorably. Cheap shirts look just like that. Like a cheap shirt. I know it sounds crazy to spend a couple hundred buck on three shirts, but wait for the Brooks Brothers buy three sales and snatch them up! Get two whites and an oxford blue. Then, as soon as you can do it again, do it.
Get another oxford blue, a pink, and one pattern. When wearing suits and ties everyday, you can get away with wearing the same five suits with the same five shirts week after week…. Mix them up, have a good assortment. You can spot that from a mile away. You can spend a couple hundred bucks and more on just one quality dress shirt at Neiman Marcus and other high end stores. For a perfect fit, you can get bespoke shirts especially from London that go up from there.
If your resources permit bespoke clothing, and you have a highly refined taste in clothing, you are reading the wrong the web site and should be reading the A Suitable Wardrobe web site. Would be curious what you would have to say about a ventless, double breasted, bespoke, suit jacket. You seem qualified to say. I enjoyed the post, but really disagree with the no square toe shoe rule. I find they give a nice clean cut end to your suit, and most of the shoes now are pretty narrow with a slimmer squared-off tip.
Thank you for the advice. I wish my son who just graduated college would sit and read the site. He does not believe what the old man suggests. Thank you once again! It has its high points, but it also has plenty of points with which I disagree, with varying intensity:.
Thou shall not wear slip on shoes with a suit. In fact, they should be avoided. Most of the vests primarily will be made of the same fabric as the rest of the suit but there are some styles that will be made of a contrasting fabric that is either a different pattern fabric such as paisley with a solid color jacket and pants or solid color vest with patterned jacket and pants for a different look.
This is pure style indeed and also derives from the s and even earlier. Always leave the last button undone on your vest. Now wearing 3 piece suit is not something that should be done without any forethought. You have to take consideration of how a 3 piece suit is supposed to fit. You need to make sure that your suit actually fits you properly where the body of the jacket fits right and collar of jacket hugs your neck just so without any gap around the neck. That is never a good look.
The sleeves on your jacket break at the wrist for that perfect fit and the slacks on your suit are the perfect fit and length breaking just so over your shoes. Not too long and certainly not too short. Now lets take a look at the vest you're going to wear. The first thing is that length of the vest on a basic 3 piece suit should just cover your belt or the waistband of your pants. There are some who feel that a man who wears a 3 piece suit should never wear a belt because of the bulge of the belt buckle and should only wear suspenders or braces.
I feel that if you want to wear a belt, wear a belt. Make sure though that on the vest, the last button is always undone. Never button it completely. This is for ease of movement and not letting the vest pull where your hips begin. It also looks better than wearing the vest fully buttoned. When you button the entire vest, it just doesn't look right. This goes for suit jackets as well.
Always leave the bottom button undone no matter what. Deciding when you wear your 3 piece suit is certainly nothing to take likely. Now if you have a basic office job where a suit is required, you better make sure that your 3 piece suit is business style conservative suit. Basic Grays and blues in a regular fit with a 2 button jacket and basic 5 or 6 button vest. No style is allowed here. This is work and the suit is a uniform. You are supposed to fit in and draw attention to yourself.
You're at work buddy. Your work is suppose to be in the spotlight, not what you're wearing. Now when you're wearing a 3 piece suit to work, you naturally keep that jacket of yours properly buttoned for that business like banker look. If you're on your own clock and not at work, you can naturally wear your suit however you like with flair or not.
If you're going to a party or wedding, that is when you can wear your more stylish 3 piece suits that come with the double breasted style vests or are made of fine patterned fabrics that are more style oriented than the type of suit you would wear to the office. This is when you can showcase your style the way want and show people you know how to wear a suit.
The 3 piece suit is perfect for wearing to Church on Sunday. Church has always been a great place to wear a 3 piece suit because hey, you're in the house of God and not at work. You can wear those suits you have with style and make conversation about them after the service while talking to your fellow Church goers.
This is a great place for discussing your taste in suits and shoes and you can wear those fancier 3 piece suits of yours and look your absolute very best. Most of our customers buy our suits and where them primarily to Church, so you'll fit right in wearing stylish 3 piece suits that are all hooked up with the latest dress shoes to match.
Many of our customers take their style seriously and get decked out matching from head to toe with the matching dress hat right down to the fancy dress shirt and tie set to the matching dress shoes for a complete look that is conversation piece all on it's own. Statement Suits Regular Fit Statement regular fit suits are for the grown man who has style and isn't afraid to show it.
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